It's getting so exciting--we're just about ready to start cutting the fashion fabric*! One thing I would like address before we get started is the side seam allowances. The pattern calls for 1/2" wide seams, and while this is doable particularly if you are using an invisible zipper (though still a squeeze!), I have found that adopting the vintage method of extending my side seams to 3/4" works a lot better. I would do this to the skirt side seams, bodice and midriff pieces (just the side seams--no need to have super wide seams on all the other edges!). This is especially necessary if you plan on inserting a placket-style zipper (which I will be posting about!), since it requires a bit more fabric to work with. (But, if you've already cut out the dress with 1/2" seams, don't worry--you can always extend those seams with some extra fabric.) So if you want to do this, now is the time to adjust your pattern as necessary (I just tape on a bit of extra paper to extend the seams an additional 1/4").
|Adding the new side seam allowance to make it 3/4" instead of 1/2" wide.|
But first: how do you transfer all those changes you made to the muslin onto your paper pattern? It sounds a bit tricky, but I promise you it really isn't. You have two options in regards to how you approach this.
|Unpicking the muslin. Unless you made different changes to each side of the pattern, you only need to use one half of the muslin.|
Use your muslin as a pattern. If you've made significant changes to your muslin, this might be the way to go. Simply unpick your basting stitches, marking your final stitching line on the muslin as you go. Press all the pieces flat and lay on your cutting surface. Measure from the stitching line to the edge, marking the new seam allowance (the pattern calls for 1/2"). Trim the muslin down to this seam allowance as needed. Of course the downside of this is if you have to add additional width/length to your final pattern; in that case I'd recommend going with one of the other options below.
|The old seam line (solid), new seamline (small dashes), and new cutting line that takes into account the seam allowance (large dashes). Be sure to remark those notches if you're using your muslin as a pattern!|
|Reducing the curve under the bust gathers on my bodice front piece. I measured the length and width that I pinned out on the muslin, marked this on my paper pattern, and cut it off. Easy!|
|Adjusting the hem.|
- Garment Fabric: be sure to follow the grainlines carefully on the pattern and use the cutting layout as a guideline for how to treat your placement of pattern pieces. Cut all pieces, including facings and pockets if you decided to go with them.
- Interfacing: cut the interfacing for the midriff piece as well as the back neckline facing (this is optional, but I find helps).
- Underlining: if your fabric is lightweight and you wish you underline it, cut all pieces out of the underlining material as well (except for pockets and the back neckline facing). The underlining is basted to the fabric and then treated as one piece. I'll touch on this a bit more later in the week.